16 Aug A Local’s Guide To Venice
Venice is something magical.
It has the potential to sweep you up into a time machine and take you back hundreds of years without even leaving your heaping plate of spaghetti allo scoglio.
The perfectly preserved gothic architecture, bright colors, emerald green canals, and herds of awe-struck tourists allow this city to be named one of the most unique and beautiful cities in the world. No other city can compare.
Amidst the floods of lively tourist groups, impatient locals trying to push their way to work, and multicultural faces peppering the streets, there are hidden gems waiting around every corner to be explored that often go unnoticed as they are off the mainstream maps and the beaten path.
TripAdvisor tends to be the tool of choice when traveling to foreign cities, as it provides an easy and accessible measurement for local attractions, restaurants, and tours. Gone are the days when explorers had to blindly trust their senses when picking the next destination for lunch or noteworthy activity.
TripAdvisor is handy, it offers a platform on which to evaluate, browse, and even comment on different experiences – but it’s doesn’t tell the whole truth.
Many establishments insist on guests writing positive reviews after their meals – often providing discounts, offers, or incentives to do so – and even resort to buying positive reviews or negatively commenting on competitors’ profiles.
This leads to a bit of a skewed feed when scrolling for a good traditional restaurant or worthwhile tour. VICE’s Oobah Butler proves TripAdvisor’s faulty rankings by using an onslaught of fake reviews to get his nonexistent restaurant “The Shed” at Dulwich to the number one ranked restaurant in London.
Venice is one of those cities in which it’s essential to use a mix of gut feeling and local tips to navigate its pricey venues and plethora of tourist traps. Many visitors tell me how their worst experiences feeling ripped off, disappointed by, or simply missing out on amazing food or activities were in Venice.
Whether it be a mediocre meal, an uninteresting tour with a guide only looking to quickly head back to the next group, or an overpriced gondola ride with the gondolier chatting away with his buddies throughout the canals – Venice is a minefield when it comes to quality experiences worth remembering.
The rise of cheap airline tickets and Airbnb has caused an increase in tourism which has put the city in a difficult position as tourists flood streets and squares, rent apartments, and dine on take away food while residents cringe in frustration and are forced to move out from rising rent prices and inability to cope with the influx of people.
Phil Rosenthal from Somebody Feed Phil on Netflix offers a glimpse into local Venetian life in his Venice episode, Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations also features an episode about Venice with Anthony visiting the likes of Trattoria da Romano, Trattoria Borghi, and Ristorante Al Covo.
While these are all great choices, there’s more to the story.
First, let me answer some pressing questions you might have:
Q1: Do people actually live in Venice?
Yes, we do. About 54,000 people reside in the historic city of Venice.
Q2: It’s so crowded! Do Venetians dislike tourists?
It’s a love-hate relationship. We complain about tourists, we’ll shake our heads when people halt on a bridge for pictures and we can’t get through, and we’ll occasionally push inattentive people to the side on the boat when we have to exit at our designated stop – but we also can’t live without tourists and we know it.
Q3: Can you ride a car in Venice?
No, not in the historic city.
Q4: Does Venice have an open and closing time?
Nope. It’s a city, your only concern for hours of operation should be directed towards the public transport service hours here.
Q5: Is it expensive?
Yes, but it doesn’t have to be. There are many activities, restaurants, and places to go to that fit any budget. It’s just a matter of putting in some research first. But more on that soon, just keep on reading!
Restaurants and Food
In this list you won’t see the “classic” restaurants incessantly appearing on all the travel guides – albeit those are probably all good choices – but my own list of personal favorites that don’t pour money in advertising or in fake positive reviews. It’s the real deal.
Many locals have their favorites, so this list may be up for debate, but there seems to be a general consensus within the city that these are the most solid choices for a consistently great meal and a swell time.
San Polo 2604 B/C, 30125 Venice, Italy
Muro Frari is a true local’s favorite. Close to the Campo dei Frari, this restaurant features a clientele mainly made up of Venetians with a side of curious tourists lured in by the luscious aromas seeping out from the kitchen. Designed by architect Eric Milanese, Muro Frari overlooks Rio Terà dei Frari, from which you have a marvelous view of one of the city’s major cathedrals. The venue’s design connects glass and corten to dark wood, bricks, and mosaic which come together to create a welcoming and contemporary atmosphere
The menu has something for everybody. There’s a mix of appetizers and entrees made from locally sourced fish from the Rialto market (try the daily baked fish with capers, potatoes, and cherry tomatoes, the fritto misto which is a mixed selection of light and airy fried fish, or the antipasto misto di pesce which features a taste of traditional Venetian fish-based dishes) a selection of meat-based dishes (try the Chateaubriand, the mighty Fiorentina (over 1kg of marbled, melt-in-your-mouth beef, or the French-style beef tartare assembled and served right at your table), some of the best pizzas in the city (try the Mastea pizza, topped with fresh buffalo mozzarella, prosciutto cotto, and olives), hearty salads that will actually leave you satisfied, and ethnic dishes with an Asian twist on Italian classics.
Don’t forget to skimp out on dessert – the homemade chocolate cake and tiramisu are to die for!
Campiello del Spezier Santa Croce 2048, 30135 Venice, Italy
Muro San Stae is Muro Frari’s more rustic and traditional-looking sibling, I have to mention this restaurant as well as it’s truly one of a kind in Venice. It’s in a quiet area in the Santa Croce neighborhood, a short walk away from the main tourist areas. Locals swear by this place as its specialties lie in some mean pizzas, fresh fish-based dishes, and excellent customer service with friendly and inviting staff. The walls are lined with bricks left bare and modern elements that come together in a controlled simplicity, making this restaurant ideal for both lunch and dinner. There’s seating both inside and outside (don’t worry about the winter cold, they have heating lamps). Try Venetian classics such as the squid ink pasta, the antipasto Muro (a huuuuge platter with a selection of Venetian classic Cicchetti), or opt for a crispy and generously topped pizza. You won’t regret it.
Santa Croce 1762, 30135 Venice, Italy
Not too far from Venice’s Santa Lucia train station, just outside of Campo San Giacomo Dell’Orio, is a place where true magic happens in the kitchen. La Zucca, which features a menu brimming with seasonal vegetables, fresh fish from the market, and an array of entrees and homemade desserts will leave your senses tingled and your tummy satisfied. The house specialties are the velvety pumpkin flan, the vegetarian platter served with rice and couscous, and the homemade cakes (try the pear cake!).
The atmosphere is warm and cozy with a view of the kitchen, so guests can peek in and take a look at what the chef is up to inside, while the restaurant has seating both inside and outside with a back entrance on the canal as well. The menu is not too pricey for the generous portions served and the wait staff is friendly and caring.
Santa Croce, 2338, 30135 Venice, Italy
If you’re looking for a place where locals eat traditional Venetian cuisine, this is another pit stop you have to make. You’ll find families loudly eating pizza, class dinners eating anything from fried fish platters to platters of prosciutto, and tourists daring to taste the Venetian classic fegato alla Veneziana (liver cooked and served with onions and polenta).
The atmosphere is rustic and inviting with wooden tables scattered across the venue, paper table tops, and waiters hurrying between tables taking orders. The restaurant has inside and outside seating in a nice garden.
But, if you’re looking to splurge…
What to eat?
Here’s what to munch on when you’re in Venice:
- Cicchetti – a sort of Venetian tapas to have as a snack and an accompaniment to wine or spritz, usually served as spreads on little slices of toasted bread or a simple small portion of a local treat.
- Fish – fried, baked, grilled or raw. Fish is king in Venice, go wild. Fritto misto (mixed fried fish); baked fish with potatoes, olives, and cherry tomatoes; grilled market fresh fish; boiled, broiled, steamed, and raw preparations guarantee a variety as vast as the ocean itself.
- Fegato alla Veneziana – or Venetian liver and onions. A typical dish from Venice, its hearty, irony, and rich flavor make this dish a must-try if you’re open to trying something a bit more exotic. The dish is prepared with calf’s liver and cooked with onions until they are caramelized and the minerally taste of the meat is neutralized.
- Sarde or Scampi in Saor – used in the past as a way to preserve food, the fish is fried and then cooked in vinegar. It’s served with caramelized onions, raisins, and pine nuts for a savory-sweet dish that will knock your socks off.
- Baccalà Mantecato – a creamy and rich spread made from cooked and reduced salted codfish with plenty of oil and garlic, a staple in the region. A few bites are usually enough to coat your mouth with pleasure.
- Polenta – served as an accompaniment to almost any dish, this Venetian staple is available everywhere to add bulk to the meal. Made out of boiled cornmeal, it’s served in liquid form or grilled and cut into squares.
Venetians don’t really have an established breakfast culture, we generally eat a small treat and a coffee. Across the city, you will find a lot of little pasticcerie and bars serving up fresh croissants, flaky pastries, crunchy ciabattas with generous fillings, drinks, and coffee to have either standing at the bar or on sitting at a table.
If you want some amazing pastries, go to either the Pasticceria Tonolo or Pasticceria Rosa Salva, they offer a wide selection of freshly baked croissants (in Italy a croissant is called a cornetto, by the way) and pastries to choose from to begin your morning in the sweetest of ways.
Remember, in Italy, there is a difference in price between consuming at the bar or taking a seat at a table. Especially in Piazza San Marco, be aware that a coffee sitting at a table at one of the bars lining the Piazza with the orchestra playing will drive the price up considerably. Take a look at the price list beforehand.
Transportation
Actv is Venice’s main public transportation service provider, managing the multitude of boats sailing along the canal and outskirts of the city, connecting otherwise far away islands to the main island.
If arriving from the airport
To get from the airport to your hotel you have a few choices, the first, if you are staying in historic Venice, is to take a taxi. The cost will be between 90 and 120 euros and is surely the most convenient and expensive way to get to your hotel.
The second choice, if you are staying in historic Venice, is to take an Alilaguna boat that has stops in various spots around Venice
The third choice is to take the bus, Actv and ATVO run the bus services to and from the airport. The 5 bus will take you to Piazzale Roma, the final stop on wheels before you switch to a boat.
If arriving from the train station
Congratulations! You’re in Venice. Now you can take a boat or walk to your destination.
If arriving at the bus station
You will arrive in Venice Tronchetto with a bus, from there you can take the People Mover (1.50€) to Piazzale Roma, from there you can take a boat or walk to your hotel.
Activities
Honestly? Just take time to get lost in the city. Roam through the streets, walk along the canals, and marvel at the beauty around you. Sit by the water, order a coffee, get a gelato, and indulge in some people watching.
Visit the main sites: the Rialto bridge, the Accademia bridge, Piazza San Marco, Murano island, Burano island, Lido di Venezia island, la Scala del Bovolo, Palazzo Ducale, the San Marco Bell Tower, and of course the Venice Art Biennale.
In terms of the Italian aperitivo (Italian happy hour) you see in the movies, Venice has a very special and unique aperitivo scene. It’s taken VERY seriously. People have Aperol/Campari/Select spritz (Aperol is sweeter, Campari and select are bitter) or simply a glass of wine or prosecco.
On where to get a good aperitivo, people usually gather in either Campo Santa Margherita (there are a number of bars in this Campo, it’s more a university student place to have a drink) or around the Rialto bridge (such as Campo Cesare Battisti Gia’ Della Bella Vienna).
There are three bars in that area (Al Merca’, La Bussola, and Barcollo) that everyone goes to, or on the side of the Grand Canal there are a few bars lining the canal that serve aperitivo for a slightly higher price but you get the nice view and can sit). These two places are good, spritz prices vary between 3€ and 4€ depending on whether it’s made with prosecco or white wine.
For wine prices, it really depends on the type, but should usually range around 3€-5€. You can also an Ombra in some bars, which consists of a small glass of house wine for 1€.
If you feel like splurging a bit, on a nice day (at sunset) go to the Molino Stucky Hilton hotel and visit their Skyline Rooftop Bar for a drink on their rooftop. It’s a bit pricey but worth it for the amazing view over Venice and its snacks. Drinks prices start at 12€.
Aperitivo time goes from about 7PM until about 9PM.
I don’t know much about the museums since I’m not super familiar with the “touristy” side of Venice. But I’ll give it a go:
In terms of museums and attractions, you can visit most churches peppered around the city for free. Some may cost a small fee.
Or you can see the Peggy Guggenheim collection, or go inside the Palazzo Ducale or the Bell Tower in Piazza San Marco, other museums of art would include the Accademia museum.
I know there are numerous walking tours offered around the city, to visit the Basilica di San Marco, climb up to the Palazzo Ducale, or to hop around the islands on tour boat. It’s up to you in terms of what you’re interested in and what you’re looking to get a deeper understanding of. There’s lots of history to explore.
Precautions
Steer clear of tourist traps and big groups. Be prudent, careful, and use your common sense when navigating around Venice.
My Ten Commandments for Venice:
- Avoid restaurants where the waiter is soliciting you to come in.
- Avoid restaurants where the restaurant features pictures of their dishes.
- Eat local, no fast food pasta place will provide the same magical feeling as immersing yourself with the locals.
- Do not bathe in the canals.
- Do not take off your shirt or roam the city in a bikini, it’s not appropriate.
- No picnicking around the city.
- When having a drink, a snack, or even a coffee in Piazza San Marco at one of the many cafes, keep in mind that sitting at one of the tables outside with the orchestra playing will cost you a fortune. By fortune, I mean your coffee can cost up to 17 euros. If you like the cafes, have your coffee or snack standing at the bar, then you are guaranteed a sane price.
- Do not trust online sponsored guides, look online for reviews, tips, and past experiences from other adventurers for the best stuff to do in Venice.
- Be mindful of the people and locals around you, it’s hard enough to get around a crowded city as a tourist, you can only imagine having to get to work!
- Respect Venice and treat it like an open-air museum.
I want to mention I was not paid by any of my lists’ recommended places to eat or go to. I simply genuinely think these are the best places to visit in Venice.
Let me know if you found this article helpful at all 🙂
Cheers!